A Madame Grès Couture Evening Dress – Autumn Winter 1953

France

Grand Soir dress in black silk faille by Madame Grès Haute Couture, 1953 collection (similar dress, cover of “l’Officiel de la Couture” n°381, 1953) with a very architectural line. The silk faille is from the Lyon-based company Bianchini-Ferrier. Curved bustier with a large pointed neckline in front, small pleated raglan sleeves and a tilting waistband on a very large sun skirt, mounted with flat pleats at the waist. Zipper on the front. Embroidery of silver threads, pearls, metallic sequins and multicoloured sequins in the orientalist taste with Indian boteh. No lining and inner belt in grosgrain with the label Grès, 1 Rue de la Paix Paris. A few beads and sequins are missing but clean and unblemished. Very good structural condition of the rift and seams.

Measurements: French size equivalent 35-36. Shoulders 35 cm, chest 82 cm, waist 64 cm, front height 135 cm, back height 145 cm, hips 90-100 cm.

Famous under the name of Alix and then Madame Grès, she worked in the Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris from 1935. From 1942 to 1988, she moved to 1, rue de la Paix under the name Grès. Her style is famous for its drapery and pure lines. The architecture of her creations, especially her bustiers, are a reference in the world of Haute Couture.

References:

Dress published and catalogued at Villa Rosemaine in 2015.

Similar dress, cover of “l’Officiel de la Couture” n°381, 1953, photo by Philippe Pottier (on request).

Palais Gallièra, archives of Madame Grès